Monday, January 21, 2008

"Their objective is to get every penny from you..."

Russell Peters wasn't kidding. I have to hand it to Chinese tour operators, even though to me they present a special kind of torture. They lure you into these package tours with absurdly low prices (in my case, Shanghai-Hangzhou-Suzhou for HKD$2000, just around $260). Then they trap you on a bus and take you to places like silk factories, teahouses, gigantic jewelry stores.

Today I witnessed the latest abomination in Chinese tour scams, something I thought really demonstrated the creativity with which they plot to dupe unsuspecting tourists:

Outrageously expensive "lucky" stone lions!

I didn't understand a word of the guy's sales pitch in Cantonese (which sounded like it was positioned as a history of the stone lion in Shanghai, why they were special, historic examples of their luckiness, and how monks prayed blessings over these particular lions so they were extra lucky--with warnings not to buy the "fake" lion souvenirs so readily available in other places). Curious, I went over to a rather small lion, about the size of my palm, and nearly gagged. Y2300! That is almost $300 USD. I asked someone if they were made of some rare and wonderful material. Nope. Apparently they are expensive because of the monks' prayers that make them extra lucky. Even the tiniest lion, which would fit on a keychain, was about USD$30. I didn't even venture to look at the larger lions that people would use to flank their doorways.

But what really flabbergasted me was that people in our tour group seemed to be taking them seriously. People tell me that older Hong Kong-nese are rather superstitious, but it really surprised me when people started dropping thousands of yuan from their hard-earned money on these lions. One woman bought three of those little guys for around Y300 each, and another guy bought the Y2300 one.
Later, when the tour took us to a pearl factory, no one bought any jewelry at all. Moral of the story: luck sells, vanity doesn't.

Back in business, sort of.

I am so behind on blog-posting by now that the enormity of what I have to post makes me want to avoid it altogether. But I feel like I need to get this stuff down somewhere, or I'll never remember what it was like to visit all the places I've been visiting the past three weeks. I think the best approach is a non-chronological one, because it would just take too long to get down all the details. Also probably be boring. I also think snippets beat out my usual long-winded accounts detailing every meal and turn. So I'll just do my best, even though I go home in 3 days and a lot of it will be after the fact. But here goes.

Sunday, January 13, 2008

Thank heaven for free airport wi-fi.

I'm sitting in the Kuala Lumpur International Airport, which rivals the Hong Kong airport in cleanliness, modernity, and distance from the city. I can't believe how long it took us to get to the airport from city center, and our cab driver was averaging 110km/hour.

Anyway, I'll write more if I have time but basically after a week in Singapore I hopped a coach bus bound for KL. We spend maybe 2/3 of the day exploring KL and buying gorgeous batiks by the armload. Though ironically I find myself preferring Javanese batik to the Malaysian ones here (I like the method of dyeing but none of the patterns have really jumped out at me). I dropped US $100 on an abstract batik painting by an up and coming artist that looks like something I would see at SFMoma. Better, I figure, than spending $5000 on a painting by an established artist. And I can even wash and iron this piece.

Everywhere I go there is curry, which is not good for a tummy recovering from another (less serious) bout of tummy issues. The traffic and city planny in KL is completely mad. The city is raw. But I kind of like it.

We're heading to Penang now... more later.

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Dying...for...internet...

Don't worry, I'm still alive and kicking, I just don't have reliable access to internet, or it's hella expensive. I'm in Singapore now, just got in from HK. I don't know why I'm in these first-world countries and struggling to connect to the web. My hotel charges an exhorbitant SGD 0.85 per minute. I don't know anyone who charges internet by the minute. This is turning me into a firm believer that internet should be free, to everyone. Geez, man.

More later (if I have time after work and can use the Internet there).